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You
will need to contact us or a
locksmith in your area for a
specific recommendation. Try to have the following information on hand:
1) Record the brand name,
model # and serial number of the safe or box and the lock (these may be
different).
2) Know whether the safe or
box is locked or open, and whether it is portable.
3) Know whether the safe or
box locks with a key, a mechanical dial, an electronic keypad, or a
combination of the above. If there are both a keyhole and a dial, note
whether the keyhole is in the dial, or separate.
4) If it is a gun-safe that
you purchased at a sporting-goods store, look for a set of numbers and/or
letters on the face of the lock. You may be able to get a key by
code.
After you provide the
locksmith with this information, he or she will be able to tell you how best
to proceed. In some cases, they may be able to obtain the keys and/or
combination from the manufacturer. Expect to provide proof of ownership of
the unit. If no documentation is available, the locksmith may insist on
delivering the information and keys, and verifying your identity and control
of the safe at that time. If you have a safe with a dial or electronic keypad
that is open, you will need to either take the door or safe to the locksmith
or, if that is not practical, you will need a service call. If the safe is
good quality and is locked shut, you may be in for a costly
safe
penetration. This can cost anywhere from a few hundred dollars to
thousands of dollars. Once the locksmith has the brand and serial number, he
or she should be able to give you an estimate. Expect your ID and
credentials to be carefully scrutinized before work commences. Also, the
process of penetrating a safe can be disruptive if the safe must be serviced
in its installed location. In the worst cases, you can expect 2 technicians
with noisy drills underfoot for one or more days. And that doesn’t include
restoring the safe after it’s open... |
